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From the excessively decorated styles for male fashion in the eighteenth century, the trend changed to the very subdued, yet elegant, perfectly fit and groomed men of the earlier part of the nineteenth century. Embellishments such as embroidery and lace were rarely incorporated in men’s clothing in the nineteenth century. The fabrics were plain, in simple colors. Jackets and long pantaloons were fitted while waistcoats or vests were the only element in the men’s wardrobe that included some form of decoration. The dominant silhouette called for a full chest and it was very common for upper class men to wear corsets and garments with padded shoulders and chest. Tail coats, often worn open, were considered the most elegant element in men’s apparel during most of the century. Frock coats, seamed at the waist and with full skirts, were a staple of daytime wear. By the mid-nineteenth century men began to wear patterned trousers during daytime while fedora hats replaced top hats for business wear. In the second half of the nineteenth century the cutaway or morning coat and later the sack coat provided men with alternatives for business wear. Ditto suits—where the same fabric was used for the trousers, vest and coat—also became popular. Sports clothing included knee-length knickerbockers and Norfolk jackets along with sport caps. Several styles of coats including Ulster, Inverness, Chesterfield, and Mackintosh were used. The silhouette for men became narrower after the 1880's while less formal items of clothing such as patterned shirts and turnover soft collars became more common. The Cowes or Tuxedo jacket debuted at this time.
The turn of the century male dressed neatly, often in a three-piece suit consisting of a coat, vest, and trousers. Sack coats were usually straight and could be single or double breasted. Accessories for men included canes, bow-ties, bowler, and top hats. In the 1910s men’s fashion changed little, other than the silhouette becoming narrower. Men continued to be concerned with impeccable grooming and the wristwatch was introduced, replacing pocket watches. Sweaters and trench coats became fashionable after WWI. In the 1920s three button sack coats were still being worn for daytime affairs; however they were now characterized by an easier fit and more natural shoulders. Tailcoats were appropriate for formal evening attire. Knickerbockers or knee pants were often worn for casual day wear while flannel and tweed fabrics were popular. Popular shoe styles include two-toned Oxfords and lace-ups.
The fashionable silhouette for men in the 1930s, a large torso and wide shoulders, was achieved through the use of squared shoulders and broad lapels in jackets. Blazers became appropriate for summer wear and double-breasted suits with wide stripes gained popularity. Men’s fashion was heavily affected by World War II since regulations restricted fabric usage. Men’s suits lost vests as well as excessive pleating, cuffs and pocket flaps. War uniforms themselves carried over an influence to men’s civilian dress, resulting in less formal styles preferred over full suits. The war’s end however, resulted in dramatic changes in fashion, most notably in long coats and fuller trousers, seen as a reaction towards the end of rationing. The zoot suit, an oversized look, was often worn by African American and Mexican American youth. Although it was seen by some as unpatriotic due to its generous use of fabric, it resulted in men’s coats of the period becoming looser.
In the 1950s men’s fashion remained fairly similar to the previous decade, differentiated by lighter weight fabrics and the gradual use of more color. Less formal styles continue to be popular, such as cardigans, sweaters, and polo shirts with sports jackets. The gray flannel suit was popularized by Hollywood actors such as Cary Grant, Gregory Peck, and Rock Hudson. In the 1960s men’s fashion saw more options than ever; ethnic and mod styles were popular and color palettes expanded. Casual button down shirts, turtlenecks, Nehru jackets, and double-breasted sports jackets were popular options. Menswear was enlivened by the “Peacock Revolution” in the 1970s, which brought bright bold color back into men’s apparel. Ties, shirt collars and lapels became wider and the three piece suit worn with a wide collared shirt became fashionable. Custom T-shirts and blue jeans were also worn at this time with platform shoes introduced for both sexes. In the 1980s men’s fashion was also influenced by television shows such as “Miami Vice” which popularized wearing T-shirts with blazers, bright pastel colors, and loafers sans socks. Baggy parachute pants were another trend and acid washed denim was commonly worn by both sexes. In the 1990s fashion for males became minimalist with simple styles dominating the silhouette and a tendency to more casual looks—even at work. Garment layering was essential for many men at the time while the term “metrosexual” was used to describe men that paid great attention to their grooming.
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